July 23, 2008
Just a
quick update now while I'm on online. Things are going well. I've been
working in the archive the past few days--they're treating me nicely.
As was the case when I worked here in 2005, they allow unlimited (and
free) use of digital cameras, which makes the work go faster. I've been
looking at some of the opisi of the Orenburg Spiritual Assembly
that I didn't get a chance to look at last time, as well as some other
materials relating to the provincial governor's office and other
branches of regional administration.
The
apartment is working out nicely. It's pretty clean now, and has begun
to feel like home. More generally, Ufa is growing on me quickly. I
didn't get a chance to see much of it the last time I was here, but
this time I'm doing a lot of walking and am spending more time talking
to people. It's a really green city, and pretty quiet. It's not the
most exciting place in the world, but it's got a rhythm that appeals to
me. I also like the fact that the sun sets really late--at around 11
pm.
Compared
to Kazan, where it's hard to forget you're in the capital of Tatarstan,
Ufa feels like a pretty ordinary Russian provincial city. I watch the
Bashkir news on television, and there's a Tatar music station on the
radio, but it's rare that I hear anything other than Russian on the
street. Written Bashkir is very visible, however, and bilingual signs
are everywhere.
I've
settled into a nice routine. In the mornings I work at home, reading
the material that I've photographed at the archive and working on an
article that has been part of my life for all too long. In the
afternoons I'm in the archive. Since the archive has a five document
per day limit, and since they let me photocopy whatever I want, I'm
just spending a few hours a day there. On Friday I'm going to check out
the library at the Academy of Sciences and see what's going on there.
Anyway, it's time to head home and relax--it's been a long day.
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